Common Ingredients

Retinol, also known as Vitamin A alcohol, belongs to the Vitamin A family alongside retinaldehyde and retinoic acid (Vitamin A acid).

Retinol has various derivative forms, with its ester derivatives being the most common, such as retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate, and retinyl propionate. Each form possesses unique characteristics in terms of stability, activity, and gentleness, gradually converting into active forms within the skin to exert their effects.

Currently, the main Vitamin A derivatives used in skincare include: retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, and hydroxypinacolone retinoate, among others.

Sources

Currently, retinol and its derivatives are primarily produced via chemical synthesis; their stability and bioavailability can be further enhanced through modification or encapsulation technologies. In recent years, new sources developed through bio-fermentation technology have also begun to emerge.

Purpose

It is a commonly used anti-aging ingredient in cosmetics. The efficacy of retinol and its derivatives in improving wrinkles, skin laxity, uneven skin tone, and hyperpigmentation is widely recognized. It can also be used clinically to treat acne.

Efficacy

Retinol and its derivatives primarily work by promoting epidermal cell turnover, slowing collagen loss, and reducing skin sagging to improve the appearance of wrinkles. In addition, retinol helps normalize metabolism in the stratum corneum, increase its thickness, and strengthen the skin's barrier function.

Numerous in vitro and in vivo studies [1-2] have shown that retinol inhibits matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) expression, reduces collagenase synthesis and secretion, and promotes Type I/III collagen synthesis, exerting anti-aging effects while increasing epidermal thickness and improving defense function.

Application

Retinol and its derivatives are primarily used in anti-aging skincare products, particularly for their roles in promoting stratum corneum renewal and collagen production.

References

[1] Varani J, et al. Vitamin A Antagonizes Decreased Cell Growth and Elevated Collagen-Degrading Matrix Metalloproteinases and Stimulates Collagen Accumulation in Naturally Aged Human Skin1[J]. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 2000, 114(3):480-486.  
[2] Kang S, Duell EA, Fisher GJ, et al. Application of retinol to human skin in vivo induces epidermal hyperplasia and cellular retinoid-binding proteins characteristic of retinoic acid but without measurable retinoic acid levels or irrita tion. J Invest Dermatol 1998;105:549–56.